Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Taipei Food Impressions

Hotel Breakfast Buffets

Breakfasts were provided at the hotels each day, a buffet of toast, steamed buns, and the staple congee and toppings. Toppings are numerous: dried pork, differently seasoned pressed tofu, differently seasoned dried and crispy tofu, seasoned dried and spongy tofu, steamed cabbage, peanuts, pickled cucumbers, bamboo shoot slices in spicy oil, bamboo shoot slices seasoned with dried fish, less spicy bamboo shoot slices in less oil, seaweed.


Plate of Breakfast Food
Clockwise from the bun: A bun - the brown and the white taste the same, steamed cabbage with carrots, woodear mushroom slices, and pork or tofu rolls - I actually couldn't tell, tofu with soy sauce sauce (thicker than just soy sauce), steamed mustard greens, fried tofu then boiled with fish balls, sweet potato fries.

Congee and Toppings
Toppings here are bamboo, pickled cucumber slices, seaweed, and tofu seasoned in a sweet sauce with sesame seeds


Taipei Night Markets

Saturday is not a good night for a sensory claustrophobic introvert to be accompanied at a night market. The flame torch broiled meats, fresh seared meat and veggie stuffed buns, grilled abalones, fried stinky tofu (my favorite!), freshly pressed fruit juices, meatballs on sticks, dumplings, dumplings in soups, fried squids on sticks, may not have an appetite to satisfy when my human body is panini pressed against people, arrays of alarm clocks, boisterous bargaining.

Night Market Fuzz
I can't feel my brain
Stinky Tofu with Pickled Vegetables

Grilled Abalone

Grilled Snails
Le Boeuf en Flambe


An array of bittermelons the length of my forearm with the girth of my calf muscle (pretend I still have beefy calves) are presented in a juice bar’s storefront. Mother is reluctant to sample their bittermelon juice, despite having imported to Hong Kong a pomegranate the size of a cantaloupe to my aunt and grandmother. Hong Kong is lax with its customs btw – if you want to bring 4 pounds of fruit or a fresh cut flower for your significant other (if it will survive the flight), do it. I am totally giving you information I probably shouldn’t. 


Din Tai Fung

Taiwan's most delicious world renowned chain. Other locations include Beijing and Los Angeles. The wait for 2 people on Sunday at 2:30 pm was 25 minutes. Quality quality food. 

Soup Dumplings with Luffa and Shrimp
Luffa is a squash that is green, crisp, mild, and delicious when not dried and shriveled into a pimple scraper

Perfectly Constructed Bowl of Beef Shank with Noodles in Red Soup



Beitou Hot Springs

In Beitou, there are three flavors of sulfur water: white, yellow, and green. I’m pretty sure sulfur is not the lone culprit for the color of the waters, but it does take majority responsibility for the ‘aroma’. The green gray angular marbled tub in our hotel room has a separate tap for white sulphur water directly from the hot spring. We soak once before dinner, once after dinner, once in the morning. The first time I fill the tub I don't mix in enough hot water and I immediately envision myself as a cooked lobster upon entering and carefully climb out. 


Hot Spring Bath Tub
Our hotel in Beitou lies just outside the beginning of one of the major sightseeing foot trails. On the map by the park, there is a table listing the destinations, the number of kCal burned by reaching each destination from the current location, and an estimation of the number of peanuts consumed. We embark along the trail skipping stops where I observe a large tour group going into a building.

Thermal Valley 

Thermal Valley is a 3500 square meter depression formed by a volcano eruption. Members of the public used to cook eggs in this 90 degree Celsius green sulphur water. Soothingly sulphorous steam off of 90 degree water permeates the pores of the skin and nostril membranes. Walking away from the stream and back to the main road breezes is chilling a blanched vegetable.

Thermal Valley
There's water under this steam. 

Beitou from the backyard of someone else's hotel.
There's steam from the other side of the fence. That's the Thermal Valley, about 50 meters below.

Folk Arts Museum

A friend of a good friend once said ‘No planning, go climb a mountain!’ upon departure from Sapporo to Kyoto. Great advice that time. I secretly enacted it walking past the hot springs park, and thermal valley in Beitou, ascending to the Taiwan Folk Arts Museum. The narrow road accommodates one car traveling in each direction and the width of a pedestrian body without a defined sidewalk. The road is well traveled though, bordered with quaint low rise rental apartments and larger yet tranquil resort hotels. Views along the way are calming, inducing further pining for what may be if one follows the road further up the mountain, where the foot trails are ‘dangerous’ (unpaved) and therefore we didn’t go there.


The folks arts museum presents the rise of Beitou as a popular destination beginning with the Japanese rule over Taiwan from 1895 – 1946. Hot spring culture was already well established in Japan, and they established the aesthetic, customs, and etiquette for dispelling exhaustion in the hot spring ambience.  The museum keeps up the low doorways, woven tatami mats and blinds, diaphanous curtains. Necessary details have been carefully attended to, including the omission of unnecessary details. 

Shoes for Adult Women
No photos in the museum, btw.

Japanese Toilet Controls
You can adjust the strength of the stream of washing water, the temperature of the washing water, the temperature of the seat, blow dry with air, the volume and flowing river sounds played while flushing.

Monday, December 15, 2014

How B Met My Mother

At breakfast with Dai Yi Yi last Thursday (morning after Dinner with H & E)
 [Dai Yi Yi, literally ‘Big Auntie’ is how I address my aunt, the older of my mother’s two younger sisters. The younger one is Sai Yi Yi ‘Little Auntie’. In Chinese, ‘big’ and ‘small’ are the comparative words for age.]

[Postings are not in order of chronological events.]

Do you know how I met him (B, the identical twin of H. Their last name starts with O, hence they are both Herr O. Herr = ‘Mister’ in German)?


Inserted preface: My mother played the flute for a long time a long time ago. She has a bachelor’s degree in music for it from a well-ranked university in the American Midwest. This story starts about two years before she traveled to the US, unknowingly for good. 

In 1978 (in Chinese, we say ‘one nine seven eight year in time’), I heard that the -----Famous German Orchestra---- would play in Hong Kong and I asked my friend if she would go with me and she did. We went to the concert hall on the day of the concert to by tickets but they were sold out. But then they opened the seating in the orchestra pit to students and we were able to get tickets to sit there. Of course I paid attention to the flute section and the first flautist (like first violinist, leader of the section). I was watching him and I thought he saw my eyes too. During intermission we left the hall and waited outside and he walked by and our eyes met. Then we went back into the hall and sat there and listened to the rest of the concert. Then after the concert my friend and I sought him out and we talked with him and we talked about how long he would stay in Hong Kong. It turns out that the tour would stay there a few more days and he asked me to come and play for him. So I did, he gave me a few lessons privately. It was really amusing, he barely spoke English, so we hardly spoke to each other but we could still talk through music. And I thought wow, what an amazing person. He is the section leader on tour with a world class orchestra, and he could be sight-seeing. But instead, he voluntarily gives his time to a student. So I feel extremely gracious to him. [There are concepts expressed in Chinese that simply don’t exist by a transliterated expression in English. What she said here was one of them, I have merged that and my fuzzy memory with ‘ extremely gracious’.] We continued to correspond for several years.

Then in end of 2011 (literal Chinese: two zero one one year end), in that year, we were going to visit Liane in Germany. So I went online to look for Herr O. (once a teacher, always a teacher and addressed as such). He has been retired for so long though, so he is no longer on the orchestra’s webpage. Then I search in google some more and saw that recently he had traveled with a group from a church or seminary to give a concert that appeared in the local news of the town that hosted him. I went to that church’s website and contacted the church, asking for Herr O. They said that they cannot give that information, you have to contact him yourself. Of course I do not have that information, that’s why I am contacting them. But I told them to tell him ‘it is R., from Hong Kong!’ and he will know. Days later she received a phone call from Germany.

Were you able to talk to each other? Dai Yi Yi asks.

‘Well kind of. But we talked with his son. His son is full grown and runs his own travel agency based out of Cologne, where he lives. We met him during our trip to Germany where we visited Herr O. at his house. They don’t travel anymore. But actually, the son, who had never been to the US, planned his own trip through his own agency to visit us last summer (2013).’

To summarize the events: My mother met a flutist in 1978 and they became friends. After three decades, they met again during my stay in Germany (lsdeutsch.blogspot.com – don’t think I ever posted anything about this meeting though). After meeting again in Germany, Herr O. introduces my mother to his twin brother who lives in Hong Kong by email. Twin brother H., my mother, and I meet for lunch during our stay in Hong Kong in December 2013. We meet again in December 2014.

In Cantonese there is a word for long winded, literally marry the words ‘long’ and ‘wind/air’ together. Now what are the words for ‘detailed’ and ‘it runs in the family?’ I’m sure the latter requires no more than two characters.


Friday, December 12, 2014

Halfy and Her Whole Mother Head to Taiwan


Route:
Walk ~500 meters to bus stop
Bus E11 to Hong Kong Airport - takes  ~1 hr
Flight to Taipei ~ 2 hours
Bus from airport to Tapei Main Station in Taipei City ~ 1 hr
Train from Taipei Main Station to Beitou to Xinbeitou ~ 30 min 
Walk 400 meters to hotel

Hot Spring Resort Hotel!

Beitou is well known for its numerous naturally occurring hot springs, and the tourism industry has done an excellent job of harvesting these resources. Our hotel room is equipped with a deep bathtub (they provide a step stool to help patrons climb over the vertical wall into the tub). Taiwan was ruled by Japan for ~50 years; therefore its culture maintains many Japanese mannerisms and stylings, like sliding doors, discreet flat blinds, wood furniture with dynamic grains highlighted by the stain, and less yelling than in Hong Kong. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beitou

External Train Decor
There is only one train between Beitou and Xinbeitou, so it is customized for its destination.


Time to run off to the Thermal Valley. Will post more details!





Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Dinner with H & E

H is the identical twin brother of B, younger by a few hours. B was a professional flautist. My mother met him in the year 1978, when his orchestra came to Hong Kong while on tour. They grew up in Germany. B still lives in Germany, just north of Bonn along the Rhein. H has been a businessman and in a way a legal consultant with various large coorporations through his life. Efficient, pragmatic, outspoken when it comes to business ethics, intellectual and technical property. H has lived in Hong Kong for more than ten years now, and for most of that time with his girlfriend E. He and his wife, who still lives in Germany, have been agreeable separated for decades. E has a daughter and is also long time separated from her husband. H & B recently turned 70, and they look 70. H especially, his skin is raisined, though his countenance remains good-humored. E is now 60, and looks 48. She would like 40 with fewer silver hairs.

B and my mom have a well-founded friendship of decades. Story of how they met to come. B and mother were out of touch for decades until my mother sought him out when my family visited me in Germany in December 2011. My mom and I met H last year in Hong Kong upon B’s recommendation. He was charming, hilarious, honest, hyperbolic. ‘I cannot find good brrread here. This soft white bread in ze shops here – zis iz brrread for toothless people.’ We’re laughing. He’s not wrong. ‘All you have to do is to put it in your mouth and zen – how do you say? – to swellow?’ ‘Swallow’ I say. ‘Yes, swallow.’ He says. We critique the bread, the lack of schnapps (booze) in the black forest cakes, his intolerance to chicken feet, my tolerance to chicken feet, fish heads, and other foods requiring surgically stripping meat off of bones with my teeth.

He lives in the real world. B, the professional musician – has always been ‘lazy’ – people pay him a lot of money to travel and to play the flute and the piccolo – he mock plays a little piccolo ‘doo doo doo doo’ and can sit in a room and listen to Mozart and weep. ‘Zis is not ze rrreal vorld!’ Says H ‘Ze rrreal vorld is tough!’ His elaborations entertained us.

Today, my mood and my stomach are still contentious after last night’s dinner.

Vomen want everything and cannot understand that zey can’t have everything. Zey vant to have babies and zey vant to vork like a man but zey do not understand that zey have difference hormones and that if zey want to have babies zey cannot vork like a man. Because men have different hormones zey cannot have babies so zeir hormones make zem to focus on going out to work and to make money. Vomen cannot vork like men if zey are going to have cheeldren and need to stay at home and to care for ze cheeldren. Zey have hormones to have cheeldren and to have more emotions vhich are not rrrational and zerefore cannot vork in the practical vorld like men.

I listen with an increasingly incredulous face, not in shock, maybe scolding squinting eyes, lips in an unpursed contemptuous closed hint of a smile.

He pauses with the usual devious and humored smile. Looking at me earnestly through his rimless glasses he leans forward and backwards once, leading with his hand, and says ‘Liane, I fink you don’t understand me’ with a downward, endearing inflection.

 ‘Oh I understand what you are saying. You are entitled to your opinion. I am not agreeing with you.’
Take my bruzzer (brother) for exahmple. All hees life he has been like vomen – he and my muzzer, zey vere leestening to Beethoven or Mozart or Bach or whoever and veeping and zees iz not ze rrreal vorld. Vhen I was sixteen I vent to vork on a farm and every day I had to stand up at four in ze morning, Liane, at four in zee morning to milk ze cows.

‘Now we’re onto a different subject’ I say, ‘the difference between you and your brother. We already knew that.’

‘Yes, but you see he is just like my muzzer – his hormones are like voman’s’ Yet, B, is lucky to have had a wife all this time who seems to have managed the logistics and bookkeeping of life in this tough world.

We fight some more, reach another moment of ‘Liane, you don’t understand me’, sit and let the other women continue Cantonese small talk.

I don’t remember if we divert to other subjects or how we return to conversation:
‘Men would be the superior race if vomen didn’t spoil zem.’ H says.

I’m pondering which arguments of the night to contend while my mother says niceties – how nice it is to be spoiled, how does B’s wife spoil him, why should she stop, etc. The responses are not making sense to me.

‘What do you mean by spoil?’ I say.
He is perplexed – his eyes say – is there more than one meaning of spoil?
‘Spoiled people are not the same as spoiled food’ I state.
He gestures a space between his two hands on the table. ‘Spoil is like when you have an apple, and it gets old, or some bugs and you cannot eat it.’
‘Like rotten’ I say.
‘And this is my meaning when I say spoiled’ he says.
‘Ok that’s not what it usually means when people are spoiled’ I explain. ‘A spoiled person is someone who has received too much, too many gifts, been taken care of too much.’
E and mom verify the Cantonese phrase for this meaning on the side.
‘Ok this is not my meaning’ says H.
‘Ok, I see’ – I sit straight while angled left to face him – similarly contemptuously smiling as before.
What do they mean? E asks in Cantonese.
‘I mean to make something bad’ he says – I know, I chime in – ‘What is the word I want to use?’he asks.

I lean in ‘I don’t think I want to teach you what you want to say?’
E says the same Cantonese phrase associated with the common meaning of spoiling a person – is that right? No, say my mom and I.
‘Go home and find it in the dictionary’ Mom says. A good friend recently pointed out that my mom speaks English like it's a tonal language. 'Go home' - each word has a deliberate and terminal inflection. She asks me a few possible words for H's meaning of 'spoiled'. I say no, none of them are the word that fits his meaning most, and I’m not going to say it out loud.
Nor am I going to find out the correct Cantonese way to say it – they’ll enjoy translating it too much.

He is laughing the whole time. My mom treats the conversation like he is always joking. The laughter never paused. I’m laughing too, but seriously perturbed, not sure who has perturbed me the most.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oh yes, the food:
1 Grouper
8 Razor clams
1 plate of buttery noodles with lobster tail and claws
1 plate of stir fried snow peas, carrots, woodear mushrooms, thin squid slices
Half a chicken

Razor Clams
Piled high with minced garlic and bean thread.

Grouper - Steamed then oiled with ginger and scallions
This head had great cheeks - sweet and meaty. The cheeks and the forehead meat are the most slippery and tender of the entire fish. You are a 'special' if I share this with you.

Yes, I ate the noodles and lobster claw in one bite with chopsticks. (No I did not.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How did we choose this restaurant?

Mother and I previously arranged with H & E to meet at Exit B1 of the Jordan subway station because I would be coming from the conference and that is where I alighted the train daily to attend the conference. H & E live farther into the New Territories, this was a compromise, considering I'd been there since 7:30 am and transiting through town again might burn me. At 6 pm, our agreed meeting time, I mother calls my candy bar mobile phone.
Where are you?
I'm at B1.
Where are you?
I'm at B1.
Inside or outside, I ask?
Inside, she says.
Really? What do you see?
I see H! Hallo...blah blah...we three are here, looking for you.
What do you see?
I see 'lo po bang' ('Wife cakes', literally. These are a kind of cake.)
What? Where?
___ street.
What?
That is the name of the stop.
Which subway stop are you at?
Yau Ma Tei.
I'm at Jordan.
You said 'Yau Ma Tei.'
I absolutely did not, I've been coming here every day. (Furthermore, this is the only station with an exit labeled 'Eaton Hotel' - where the conference is.)
Ok, should we come find you?
No, I know the way there. (I know the way north, and that's all I need to know.)
I ascend to ground level and walk ~1 km until I find Yau Ma Tei station in my pencil skirt, stockings, formal flats (fortunately), schlepping my laptop bag, descend into the station, I find them at B1. The walk feels longer while rushing through pedestrian food traffic.
Yay.
Where should we go, mom asks.
I researched the area near the other station but nevermind now, we are farther from it.
Ok, let's go outside and look around.
We wonder around Nathan Road, the main drag, headed south, in the direction of Jordan station. We see mostly big flashy establishments, not your cheap eats. No one is familiar with this area. I am not picky. The others have firm but not verbalized criteria. Soon we're blocks away from Jordan station. I say earlier I found a street with lots of options, Thai food, noodles, hot pot, rice meals, Chiu Chow style -ok we'll follow you they say. Search hits for 'restaurants' would look like a tangle of red caterpillars if you yelped this area for restaurants. Restaurant to restaurant - vetoed for different reasons. But the final reasoning is - I've never been to those, I don't know if they're good, says E. We go to a well established restaurant - a local chain - in a building next to the hotel I've been at.
You look so tired, they say.





Dinner at the Sheung Wan Cooked Food Center

Tuesday, Dec. 09 - Mother's First Night in Town

Three women consumed the following:
2 heaping bowls of rice
A 22 oz bottle of beer (90% me, 10% Mom)
8 chicken feet
A fish baked in salt
A pot of fried tofu further stewed with vegetables in a thick sauce
A plate of 'gai lan' stir fried with ginger pieces

A small amount of each was carried home in a tupperware for grandma, who was recovering from a stomach bug. This practice is absolutely ok in the kind of establishment we were in.

Chicken Feet - Slow Cooked with Soy Sauce
Tender and succulent. Green vegetable - the one called 'gai lan' sauteed with ginger pieces
Fish Baked in Salt 
Served with sauce of salted fermented soy beans, kind of like natto (Japanese), but more fluid and less sticky.
The meat was delicious, and overall not too salty. The salt was caked on the skin, which was thick and leathery.
The head did not have a lot of meat in it.